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Yosemite’s significance to the climbing community cannot be overstated, its towering cliffs and breathtaking vistas are a beacon to those seeking challenge and adventure. But, climbing here isn’t just about ascending a rock face; it’s about connecting with the landscape’s geological, cultural, and historical essence. It’s about discovering yourself while also embracing the beauty of nature.

Yosemite Geology

Yosemite’s granite walls tell a story that spans hundreds of millions of years, a tale of fire, pressure, and ice. It all began deep underground, where molten rock slowly cooled beneath the surface, eventually forming the massive, crystalline granite that would one day become El Capitan, Half Dome, and the rest of the cliffs of the Valley. Over time, the earth’s tectonic forces uplifted these rocks, and erosion stripped away the softer layers above, exposing the dense granite faces.

Then came the glaciers. During the Ice Ages, vast rivers of ice carved through the landscape, smoothing and steepening the granite faces, leaving behind the dramatic formations we see today. For climbers, the coarse, high-friction granite provides perfect cracks for jamming and clean edges for delicate foot placements, helping make it a world-class climbing destination. Each ascent is a direct connection to the powerful forces that shaped this place.

Yosemite History

Before the granite walls of Yosemite became a playground for rock climbers, the region was home to Native American tribes who lived and thrived in the area for at least 4,000 years. The Yosemite Valley and surrounding areas were inhabited primarily by the Ahwahneechee, a group of the larger Miwok tribe. These Indigenous peoples had a deep connection to the land, living off its resources and maintaining a profound respect for the environment.

The Ahwahneechee people utilized the valley for hunting, fishing, and gathering, with an intricate understanding of the area’s natural cycles and ecosystems. The iconic granite formations, such as El Capitan and Half Dome, held spiritual significance and were woven into the cultural fabric of their lives. 

Early Exploration by Europeans 

Although the valley was initially seen as a curiosity, the region’s unique geology soon attracted more explorers and geologists. As they ventured into the high country, peaks such as Cathedral Spires and Mount Watkins caught the attention of adventurers looking to ascend Yosemite’s steep granite cliffs. The first recorded technical ascent in Yosemite came in 1869, when famed naturalist and conservationist John Muir soloed Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows. This ascent, while modest by today’s standards, was a landmark achievement for the time and marked the beginning of Yosemite’s rock climbing history.

The Golden Age of Yosemite Climbing: The 1950s and 1960s

The 1950s and 1960s are often considered the “Golden Age” of Yosemite climbing, a period that marked the birth of modern big-wall climbing. Yosemite’s towering granite faces, particularly those of El Capitan and Half Dome, began to draw climbers from across the country. These climbers sought to push the limits of what was possible, and their success in Yosemite would forever change the sport.

In 1958, Warren Harding and his team made the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, a climb that would become one of the most iconic routes in the world. Their ascent took an astounding 45 days and relied heavily on aid climbing, a technique where climbers use fixed ropes, ladders, and other gear to assist their progress up the wall. This ascent was groundbreaking, as it proved that Yosemite’s massive granite walls were climbable, even though many doubted the feasibility of such a feat.

Just a few years later, in 1961, Royal Robbins and his team made the first free ascent of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan. This ascent was revolutionary for its use of free climbing, a method where climbers rely solely on their hands and feet for upward progress, using gear only for protection. The Robbins-led team’s ascent was a significant departure from the aid climbing techniques that had previously been the norm, and it marked the start of the free climbing era in Yosemite. Their approach to climbing was also more minimalist and respectful of the environment, an ethos that continues to shape climbing in Yosemite to this day.

The Stonemaster Era: Climbing Culture Blossoms

In the 1970s, Camp 4, located near the base of El Capitan, emerged as the spiritual home of Yosemite climbing culture. Camp 4 became the meeting point for climbers who gathered to share stories, hone their skills, and challenge one another. This period, often referred to as the “Stonemaster” era, saw the rise of climbers like Jim Bridwell, John Long, and John Bachar. These climbers not only made historic ascents but also played a critical role in shaping climbing culture.

During this time, the development of clean climbing took hold. Clean climbing emphasized the use of minimal protection—no pitons or permanent bolts—and a greater focus on natural gear, such as cams and nuts. This ethos helped maintain the integrity of Yosemite’s pristine granite while pushing the limits of what climbers could achieve. John Long, in particular, was instrumental in the growth of free climbing, making bold ascents that emphasized speed, skill, and creativity. His work, along with that of other climbers, helped define the modern approach to climbing, with an emphasis on efficiency and pure technique.

The Dawn Wall and the Free Solo of Freerider  

The 1990s and 2000s were marked by increasing technical difficulty and bold, innovative climbing. Yosemite’s iconic routes continued to be tested, and climbers sought to leave their mark on the park’s legendary granite faces. Perhaps the most famous event in modern Yosemite climbing came in 2015, when Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan. This climb, which took more than two weeks, pushed the boundaries of what was considered possible, as it involved 32 pitches of extreme difficulty. The Dawn Wall ascent brought worldwide attention to Yosemite and solidified the park’s place as the epicenter of climbing achievement.

Shortly after, in 2017, Alex Honnold achieved a feat that many thought impossible, free soloing Freerider on El Capitan. Free soloing involves climbing without any ropes or protective gear. Honnold’s climb was documented in the Oscar-winning film Free Solo and brought him international acclaim, cementing his place as one of the greatest climbers in history.

Yosemite Today

Yosemite’s climbing history is still unfolding. Each new climber who ascends its iconic faces becomes part of this living legacy. Climbers who come to Yosemite today—whether for a day of trad climbing or an attempt on the world-famous big walls, are following in the footsteps of those who helped shape the sport and create the very culture of climbing in Yosemite that endures to this day.

Hike Yosemite’s classic summits

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The first time I went to Yellowstone National Park with my family, we joined the crowds and did a few short day hikes. It was such a mind-blowing, unique landscape, but to be honest, I didn’t think I’d ever go back. The crowds were enough to deter me. That all changed when a friend convinced me to go backpacking for 5 days and we saw far more bison and elk than people! Fast-forward a handful of years, and now I spend about 40 nights each year in the backcountry of Yellowstone.   

We are incredibly lucky to have such insanely beautiful spaces to explore in our National Parks. I know it can be overwhelming to decide what to do first, so let’s go over the Best National Park Backpacking Trips to get you started! Since these are very popular (for good reasons), I’ll also offer an alternate trip for each area in case you can’t snag the permit you’re hoping for or you just want more solitude.  

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For hikers, climbers, and adventurers, the Sierra Nevada range offers a unique and challenging wilderness experience. Trails like the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and the John Muir Trail (JMT) carve through the heart of the range, offering both beginners and seasoned hikers an unforgettable adventure. The landscape is undeniably beautiful, with its rocky peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and wild rivers, yet the terrain is demanding, requiring skill, preparation, and perseverance.

Hikers must contend with steep ascents, high-altitude passes, and unpredictable weather, all of which test their physical and mental fortitude. However, the rewards of trekking through the Sierra Nevada range are immense: unparalleled natural beauty, a profound sense of accomplishment, and a true connection with the wilderness.

History

Indigenous Peoples and Early Travelers

 For thousands of years, the Sierra Nevada range was home to numerous Indigenous tribes, such as the Paiute, Miwok, and Mono. These peoples lived in harmony with the land, utilizing the region’s rich resources for food, medicine, and spiritual purposes. Their trails across the Sierra Nevada range, carefully crafted to navigate the rugged terrain, form the foundation of many of the hiking routes used today.

Indigenous peoples had a deep connection to the mountains, seeing them as sacred and integral to their cultural practices. The trails carved by these early inhabitants were not only practical but also spiritual pathways, leading to places where ceremonies and rituals were conducted. This connection to the land remains evident, influencing modern conservation efforts and emphasizing the need to preserve the integrity of these wild spaces. 

The Gold Rush and Conservation Movement

In 1848, the discovery of gold in the Sierra foothills led to the California Gold Rush, which dramatically altered the landscape. The influx of settlers, miners, and prospectors ravaged the land, causing environmental degradation and threatening the natural beauty of the Sierra Nevada range. Rivers were diverted, forests were cut down for timber, and the high-altitude meadows were disturbed. Despite the Gold Rush’s negative impact, the Sierra Nevada range’s stunning beauty eventually became a rallying point for conservationists.

In the late 19th century, the conservation movement gained momentum, with individuals like John Muir advocating for the preservation of the wilderness. Muir, who spent much of his life exploring the Sierra, famously referred to the mountains as the “Range of Light” due to the way sunlight played off the granite cliffs. His writings and advocacy led to the establishment of Yosemite National Park in 1890 and the creation of the Sierra Club, which continues to be a powerful voice in environmental protection. 

Modern Hiking 

The modern era of hiking in the Sierra Nevada range began in the early 20th century with the completion of significant trails like the John Muir Trail (JMT), which was finalized in 1938. The JMT, stretching 211 miles through the heart of the Sierra, remains one of the most iconic long-distance hiking trails in the United States. The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), completed in 1968, follows a similar path and stretches 2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada, with a significant portion traversing the Sierra Nevada range. As hiking became more popular and accessible, the Sierra Nevada range’s challenging terrain attracted a growing number of adventurers, from weekend hikers to those taking on the grueling challenge of a thru-hike. Modern hikers benefit from advanced gear, better trail infrastructure, and a growing culture of long-distance trekking.

Read: a thru hiker’s account of hiking the JMT

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In this guide, I’ll explore some of the best campgrounds in California, from coastal getaways to serene mountain retreats and even whimsical desert landscapes. Whether you’re planning a family-friendly trip or seeking a remote wilderness escape, these spots will give you a choice place to check out the stars outside your tent flaps.

Leave No Trace

Any time we’re traveling or camping in wilderness we need to do our best to preserve the areas we recreate in. I know you’ve heard the old adage of “Take nothing but pictures and leave nothing but footprints” but we can do even better! Whenever I’m outside I try to follow along with Leave No Trace’s Seven Principles. These allow us to preserve these places we love to visit. Both so future generations can enjoy them just as much as we do, and so we don’t show up next year to a total dump.

These principles are:

• Plan ahead and prepare.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
• Dispose of waste properly.
• Leave what you find.
• Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
• Respect wildlife.
• Be considerate of other visitors.

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That’s all there is to thru-hiking, right?

That’s what I kept telling myself as I climbed the steep switchbacks of Mt. Whitney, the tallest peak in the lower 48 and the start of a much larger journey. My feet crunched on the sandy trail beneath the dim glow of my headlamp, while the moon kept a quiet, watchful vigil overhead. I felt like an ant crawling through towering granite walls that stretched endlessly into the sky. With each step, the weight of my pack and the enormity of the journey ahead pressed down on me. The thin air stung my lungs, my legs burned, yet excitement surged through me stronger than the fatigue. I was finally here—about to embark on the John Muir Trail, with its 211 miles of untamed wilderness, beauty, and challenge. 

But as the summit loomed far above, so did the fear of the unknown. Would I be strong enough? Could I handle the unpredictability of nature? Every switchback became a battle between anxiety and hope, the physical challenge pushing me to my limits while my heart raced with anticipation. When I finally reached the flat, rocky expanse of the summit, I pulled out my sleeping bag, layered up in my warmest clothes, and sipped half-frozen water from my crusty old bottle. Watching the sun rise in the east, I felt that familiar peace that only comes from accomplishing something difficult in the wilderness.

The John Muir Trail (JMT) is renowned for being one of the most breathtaking long-distance hiking trails in the world. Stretching through California’s Sierra Nevada mountains it winds through iconic wilderness areas including Yosemite, Kings Canyon,and Sequoia National Parks, as well as the Ansel Adams Wilderness. It takes hikers over high alpine passes, past pristine glacial lakes, and through ancient granite formations—each as awe-inspiring as a national park in its own right. 

But while the beauty of the JMT is undeniable, the logistics of permits, resupply points, and navigation can be daunting for even seasoned adventurers. A thru-hike requires preparation far beyond physical conditioning, from managing resupplies and reroutes due to weather or wildfires, to planning meals and dealing with ever-changing trail conditions.

So a bit more than step, breath… 

In this article, I’ll share my experience on the John Muir Trail (JMT) as part of my Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) thru hike, focusing not only on the trail itself but also on the logistics of completing this trek. From securing permits and resupplying, to managing weather and physical challenges, I’ll cover what it takes to embark on this unforgettable journey through some of the most stunning scenery in the lower 48.

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Over 1,500 species of plants and animals call Point Reyes’ 100 square miles of coastal wilderness home. Multiple ecosystems exist here including grasslands, beaches, cliffs, and marshes. The National Seashore also contains rich Native American heritage along with historic buildings and structures left behind by early European settlers.

Humans have inhabited Point Reyes in one form or another for thousands of years. The Coast Miwok Indian Communities fished, collected mussels, oysters and other sea creatures from the ocean and could retreat to Olema Valley for more mellow weather and protection.

There is debate of whether Sir Francis Drake set foot on the peninsula, but many explorers had their ships wrecked along its treacherous coastline. The San Agustin’s crew were the first European explorers (if we aren’t counting Drake) to set foot on the Peninsula and called it “La Punta de los Reyes.”

From the Spanish Mission period, to a thriving dairy industry, to becoming a protected seashore, Point Reyes has a rich and complicated history that still affects legislation to this day.

Thanks to its vibrant natural resources and snapshot into the past, this park draws more than two million visitors a year. If you’re planning a trip to Point Reyes National Seashore, this guide will explain where to go, what activities to do, and how to make the most of your time!

Where is Point Reyes National Seashore?

Point Reyes National Seashore is located in California, about an hour’s drive north of San Francisco along the Pacific Ocean. California’s wine country of Sonoma and the main city, Santa Rosa, are just an hour’s drive Northwest of here. The National Seashore is situated on the Point Reyes Peninsula, surrounded by Tomales Bay to the northeast and Bolinas Lagoon on the southeast.

Point Reyes National Seashore is mainly split up by hiking trails, visitor centers, and historic landmarks. The National Seashore is divided by Sir Francis Drake Blvd which trends southwest towards the lighthouse and Pierce Point Road that heads North to dead end at Tomales Bay and McClure’s trail head. Other than Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center, the campground and Bear Valley Visitor Center, there are no amenities.

The small towns of Olema and Point Reyes Station are located just outside Point Reyes and have gas and restaurants. From a one-hour visit to a multi-day adventure, there are many ways to get to and explore Point Reyes National Seashore!

How to Get to Point Reyes National Seashore 

The most common way would be to fly into the San Francisco Bay area and drive up the coast about an hour. You can take the winding and scenic Highway 1, or follow the inland Highway 101 and then cut west. Santa Rosa and Petaluma both have small airports that are an hour away. If you don’t have a vehicle, you can also take public transportation from San Rafael to the visitor center, but be aware that there is no public transport system within Point Reyes to reach different sites.

Make sure to check for road and entrance closures before your trip. Highway 1 is known to have frequent landslides after big storms and parts of the highway may be rerouted to Highway 101.

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Before opening to the public as a National Park, the lands within and surrounding Yosemite, and continue to be, the ancestral home of the Ahwahnechee peoples of the Southern Sierra Miwok tribe, as well as the Paiute and Mono tribes. These indigenous peoples had a deep connection with the land, utilizing it for food, medicine, shelter, and spiritual practices.

It is important to recognize this heritage and respect these lands so that both present and future visitors can continue to enjoy it.  

More recently, John Muir, a Scottish born conservationist, was awe-struck by the grandeur of wild Yosemite and successfully motivated the establishment of Yosemite Valley and its surrounding areas as a National Park in 1890. Predating this, President Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant of 1864 which protected Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove, making it the first time in history that land was set aside for preservation and public use.

Over the years, the park has continued to expand its boundaries and in 1984, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

Yosemite has continued to be popular year after year, receiving over 3.8 million visitors in 2023, making it the 6th most visited national park in the country. With such high visitation, Yosemite reservations may be needed to enter the park if you plan to go in 2024. 

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Each step brings you closer to a sense of freedom and adventure, as you leave behind the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse yourself in the tranquillity of the wilderness. Backpacking in the Emigrant Wilderness is not just a physical journey, but a spiritual one, where you can reconnect with the natural world and discover the true essence of exploration.

The 113,000-acre Emigrant Wilderness is located in the Stanislaus National Forest, on the upper western slope of the central Sierra Nevada mountain range. Bordered on the south by Yosemite National Park and on the east by the Toiyabe National Forest/Hoover Wilderness, this wilderness area measures roughly 25 miles long and 15 miles wide. Major watersheds here drain to the Stanislaus and Tuolumne Rivers. The area is entirely within Tuolumne County and is approximately 140 air miles east of San Francisco, 50 air miles south of Lake Tahoe.

History

The Emigrant Wilderness was officially designated by Congress in 1975, although much of the area had already been safeguarded as a Forest Service Primitive Area since the 1920s. This glaciated landscape boasts remarkable scenic beauty, with the northeastern portion characterized by volcanic ridges and peaks, while the rest features sparsely vegetated granitic ridges interspersed with numerous lakes and meadows.

Elevations within the Emigrant Wilderness vary from below 5000 feet near Cherry Reservoir to a towering 11,570 feet at Leavitt Peak. The region receives an average of 50 inches of precipitation annually, with 80 percent falling as snow. Snowpacks often persist into June, particularly after wet winters.

Summers are typically dry and mild, though sporadic afternoon thundershowers can occur, and nighttime temperatures may drop below freezing. Mosquitoes are prevalent near wet areas during June and July. Some parts of the Emigrant Wilderness still permit cattle grazing, so encountering cows or their signs is possible from July to September.

The Emigrant Wilderness area has a rich history that dates back to the indigenous people who originally inhabited the land. The area was traditionally home to the Miwok and Washoe tribes, who lived off the land and thrived in harmony with nature.

In the mid-19th century, the California Gold Rush brought a wave of settlers and prospectors to the region, leading to increased exploration and development of the area. The Emigrant Wilderness got its name from the emigrant parties that passed through the area on their way to California during the Gold Rush era. These early pioneers faced harsh conditions and rugged terrain as they made their way through the wilderness but hopefully your journey there will be more pleasant.

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