Gulmarg's
legendary beauty, prime location and proximity to
Srinagar naturally make it one of the premier hill
resorts in the country. Originally called ‘Gaurimarg’
by shepherds, its present name was given in the 16th
century by Sultan Yusuf Shah, who was inspired by
the sight of its grassy slopes emblazoned with wild
flowers. Gulmarg was a favourite haunt of Emperor
Jehangir who once collected 21 different varieties
of flowers from here. Today Gulmarg is not merely
a mountain resort of exceptional beauty- it also has
the highest green golf course in the world, at an
altitude of 2,650 m, and is the country's premier
ski resort in the winter.
The
journey to Gulmarg is half the enchantment of reaching
there-- roads bordered by rigid avenues of poplar
give over to flat expanses of rice fields interspersed
with picturesque villages. Depending on the season,
nature's colours could be the translucent green of
spring, summer’s rich emerald, or autumn’s
golden hues, when scarlet chillies festoon windows
of village homes. After Tangmarg, the climb to Gulmarg
begins through fir-covered hillsides. At one point,
known simply as View Point, travellers generally stop
their vehicles for a few minutes and look out a spectacle
of snow-covered mountains, almost within touching
distance.
The
Meadow Of Flowers: A huge cup shaped meadow, lush
and green with slopes where the silence is broken
only by the tinkle of cowbells, Gulmarg looks like
a fantasy set in a film and not surprisingly have
been the venue of several films.
The
valley of Gulmarg, a large meadow about 3-sq-kms in
area, stands at 2,730 metres, 56-km south west of
Srinagar . The name means 'Meadow Of Flowers' and
in the spring it's just that, a rolling meadow dotted
with countless colourful Bluebells, Daisies, Forget
Me Not's and Buttercups. The valley itself is about
3-km long and up to a km wide.
Take
a Hike! All around are snow-capped mountains, and
on a clear day one can see all the way to Nanga Parbat
is one direction and Srinagar is another. It's a popular
day trip from Srinagar to Gulmarg, although many people
extend their stay or use it as a base for trekking.
The road from Srinagar rises gently towards the lower
slopes of the range, passing through rice and maize
fields.
From
Tangmarg, at the foot of the range, there are two
paths to Gulmarg - a steep footpath or a winding sealed
road. There is also a pony track from Gulmarg that
leads upwards to Khilanmarg, Kongdori and seven springs.
PRIME
ATTRACTIONS
Hilanmarg
This smaller valley is about a 6-km walk from the
Gulmarg bus stop and car park. The meadow, carpeted
with flowers in the spring, is the site for Gulmarg's
winter ski runs and offers a fine view of the surrounding
peaks and over the Kashmir Valley. It's a 600-metre
ascent from Gulmarg to Khilanmarg and during the early
spring, as the snow melts, it can be a very muddy
hour's climb up the hill. The effort is rewarded,
if it's clear, with a sweeping view of the great Himalayas
from Nanga Parbat to the twin 7,100-metre peaks of
Nun and Kun to the southeast.
Alpather
Lake:
Beyond Khilanmarg, 13-km from Gulmarg at the foot
of the twin 4, 511 metre Apharwat peaks, this lake
is frozen until mid-June and even later in the year
one can see lumps of ice floating in its cold waters.
The walk from Gulmarg follows a well-graded Pony track
over the 3, 810 metre Apharwat ridge, separating it
from Khilanmarg, and then up the valley to the lake
at 3,843 metres. The more adventurous trekkers can
climb straight up the boulder-strewn slope of the
ridge and descend the other side to the path. For
horse riding aficionados, Alpather Lake makes an exciting
day's excursion, starting early morning and returning
late evening.
The
Ningli Nallah:
Flowing from the melting snow and ice on Apharwat
and the Alpather Lake, this pretty mountain stream
is 8-km from Gulmarg. The stream continues down into
the valley below and joins the Jhelum River near Sopur.
This long, grassy valley is a popular picnic spot
and the walking path carries on, crossing the Ningli
(also spelt as Ningle) Nallah by a bridge and continues
on to the Khilenmarg, another grassy meadow and a
good spot for camping. In early summer one will probably
share the campsites with Gujars moving their herds
up to the high meadows.
Ferozpore
Nallah
Reached from the Tangmarg road, or from the Outer
Circular Walk, this mountain stream meets the Bahan
River at a popular picnic spot known as 'waters meet'.
The stream is reputed to be particularly good for
trout fishing; it's about five km down the valley
from Gulmarg but quite close to Tangmarg. The river
can be reached by walking 3-km down the path from
the gap near Tangmarg and then heading south through
the forest, down a slope towards the stream.
Near
here there is a bridge which leas to the small waters
meet picnic spot on the right bank. Looking south
from Tangmarg the river can be traced up to its source
close to the rugged peak known as Ferozpore or Shinmahinyu.
On the right bank the stream branches, the left path
leading to Tosa Maidan, while the right bends away
towards the Gogaldara road at a second bridge, about
32-km upstream, and then leads away to the Ferozpore
pass, Poonch and Kantar Nag.
One
can continue on from here to Tosa Maidan, a three
day, 50-km walk to one of Kashmir's most beautiful
Marg's, crossing the Basmai Gali pass at about 4,000
metres. The track here is very close to the ceasefire
line with Pakistan and on the right one will pass
the Jamainwali Gali, the pass at 4,000 metres is one
of the easiest and safest routes into the Punjab.
Shrine
Of Baba Reshi / Ziarat Of Baba Reshi :
This Muslim shrine is on the slopes below Gulmarg
and can be reached from either Gulmarg or Tangmarg.
The Ziarat, or tomb, is of a well-known Muslim saint
who died here in 1480. Before renouncing worldly ways
he was a courtier of the Kashmir King Zain-ul-Abidin.
Every year thousands of devotees visit this shrine
regardless of the faith they believe in.
Golf
Courses:
Gulmarg also has one of the world's highest green
golf courses, as well as a clubhouse, which is a historical
building in its own right. For the would-be golfer,
there are golf sets on hire, pros to instruct one
in the game, and temporary memberships. Naturally,
these facilities are available to players as well,
except that serious golfers usually carry their sets
along.
Gondola
Lift:
For a fun filled ride of a most unusual kind, Gulmarg's
newly constructed Gondola lift from high above Gulmarg,
through pine clad slopes, is exhilarating.
Gulmarg
Biosphere Reserve:
For witnessing the glorious fauna of the great Himalayan
range, such as the Himalayan Musk Deer, Red Fox, Brown
and Black Bear along with numerous resident and migratory
birds, visit the Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve. Located
at a height of 2,400m above sea level and with a coverage
area of 180-sq-kms, this reserve is at a distance
of 48-km from Srinagar. The best time to watch the
wildlife is September to March.